Posted on 05/04/2009 at 08:14 PM in Beautiful Creatures, Charleston, South Carolina, Work | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
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Although we were never asked for our passports, or crossed any international borders, Charleston is as foreign as any European city. We found ourselves mystified my the foods listed on menus, asking the waiters, "what are those mixed up beans?" (answer, succotash) "what's in the has I just ate?" (answer, don't ask.) The houses were built differently, and in a rainbow of colors. Social rules and local wisdom are unique to the South. The trees and flowers grew differently, the flowers bloomed with brighter colors, the sky was bluer. Perhaps not a foreign city, but definitely one in Technicolor.
Our first day in Charleston was the coldest day I had ever felt. Only 62 degrees, but with the wind whipping off the water, it felt colder than the Tetons in the winter. The sun warmed us somewhat at midday, but it was getting later, and the sun was starting to fall as Margie, Deby and I drove to the Battery, where Charleston’s wealthiest kept grand mansions for the social season.
We parked by the row of houses that faced water. The houses face a park studded with mossy oaks, and on the other side of the park, the Ashley River and the Cooper Rivers meet. We marveled at the homes, they were like nothing we had ever seen. The sun was low in the sky, and the three of us walked around the area, taking pictures of ourselves, the houses, the river.
As usual, I wandered off on my own. A place reveals itself to you, but first you must shut off the voices of your friends and listen quietly before you can see what is there. I walked over to take a picture of some interesting stairs that lead to a path where you could view the river. Turning around, I looked through the field of trees toward Charleston harbor, and knew the sun was setting quickly in that direction. It was about to make its biggest show before disappearing for the night. So I ran.
I ran through the park towards the sunset. I wanted to catch the most magical time of day, no glaring shadows or harsh flat light, just the low sun casting a golden glow on everything it touches. Or maybe I just wanted some of that golden light to fall on me.
Whatever the reason, as I raced through the park under the dark canopy of oaks and silvery glistening moss, the light beyond beckoned. I remember my heart racing - I had to get to the sunset. Its glow fanned out onto the grass through the trees and I snapped some pictures while running.
I made it in time to see and photograph the sunset, and those pictures of the sunset over the river are beautiful, but the one that strikes me the most is the one I took while running through the park. Its colors are more vivid than any other picture I took on that trip. The golden light of the sun’s rays fans out onto the electric green of the grass, all converging on the shadowy oaks.
When I think of Charleston, I remember that magical moment in the park on the Battery, running towards the light of the sunset, but finding the real magic in the shadow of the oak trees. The beauty of Charleston was revealing itself to me in the rays of the sun, in the glowing green of the grass, in the silvery moss.
I know now that the thing I was supposed to see was not what I was running towards, but what I passed along the way.
Posted on 03/15/2009 at 04:59 AM in Charleston, South Carolina, Photography, Travel | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
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It wasn't easy to leave the house. In many ways. I had to make the schedule for Dave and the nannies, find and charge a variety of electrical equipment, fix my itunes library, make the perfect mix for the trip, steal Dave's iPod, synch it, make sure I had all my "vitamins" with me.
Then there were the goodbyes. Sara was pretty easy. She likes some emotional prep, so we have been talking about this for days. She has gone through her seven stages, denial, anger, grief, anger, I don't remember the rest, but she finally hit acceptance this morning. Only one "I don't want you to go," which I think she did for my benefit. Throw the old lady a bone.
Jake said quietly, "Please don't go on that trip," which for him was the equivalent of a three day tantrum. That one made me feel bad. Between Jake's stoic plea and the gurgling of the baby, I was pretty sure I was going to cancel and stay home. It was just too hard to leave, plus there was too much to do, and how would they survive without me, and Dave would never be able to procure three birthday presents for this weekend, and people keep sending me emails, and where's the charger for the kindle...
The flight to Atlanta was easy. One Ativan, little sleep, a little reading, inflight movie: The Secret Life of Bees (ok for a plane movie, but if you ask me I might go on about formulaic chic trash.) It is really cold in Atlanta, and we emerge from the jetway shaking and chattering, only to look up and are warmed by the red glow of a beautiful sight, lo, a holy vision. Could it be?
ATLANTA HAS CHICK-FIL-A!!!
Memories flooded back - ditching school to go to Chick-fil-a in the Santa Monica Place (RIP). Remember it? Right between Cafe Cafe and Potatoes Potatoes Potatoes. (Really, that's not a joke!)
Eight tiny nuggets, one order of waffle fries, and on gallon of Sweet Tea later, I was feeling better.
The flight to Charleston was short and nobody sat next to me. The walk from the plane to the jetway was FREEZING! So much for stifling humidity that makes everyone talk slowly, wear sundresses and hats, and drink lemonade. They told me it would be cold, but I just didn't believe it. I have never seen a movie about the South in February, so it couldn't possibly happen.
We drove out to Kiawah Island in the dark. On the map, the road looked like a major highway, but in person, it was a two lane road with trees that lined both sides and reached over to touch each other above our heads. The trees were occaisionally interrupted by a church, or a mailbox and a small house, or a church. They have a lot of churches here. Oh, and don't forget the Piggly Wiggly. Seriously, they have a Piggly Wiggly, and yes, I took pictures.
The house is amazing. I'll send pictures later. Rocky Road ice cream, two games of gin (I won both, thank you Nana!) and it was time for bed. Not sure if I'll be able to fall asleepzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.
We're not in Kansas any more.
Now for the tally:
Chinstrap Beards: 3
Sweet Tea: 1 gallon
"fixin"*: 1 (thank you Brody from Hertz.)
*as in "I'm fixin' ta buy a ticket to California," vernacular for intending, or as they say in these parts vah-nacular. Now that's Carolina Gold.
Posted on 02/05/2009 at 05:41 AM in Charleston, South Carolina, Travel | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
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